Chang Mai to Luang Prabang, down the Mekong

After Chang Mai we had three consecutive travel days, so a good chance to catch up on reading and drinking.
From Chang Mai we caught a 6 hour minibus to Chiang Khong on the Thai-Lao border, and then had a rickety 6 minute ferry across the Mekong river to Huay Xai (also spelt Huay Sai sometimes).


Then from Huay Xai we caught a slowboat down to Luang Prabang, which was split into 6 hours on the first day, an overnight at Pakbeng, and then another 7 hours to Luang Prabang.


Along the way we got to see a cross section of rural life, including a boat full of monks and a multitude of hamlets scattered along the riverside.


Further thoughts as follows:
Huay Xai
The first problem I encountered in Huay Xai was trying to work out what the local currency was worth. One important tip for anyone travelling to Laos is to remember that the currency is non-convertible, so you should probably change your kip (the Laos currency) into foreign currency before you leave. Also, there might not be currency changing options on the border Our friend Emma was caught out by this, so very kindly gave Marie and I some Laos currency. As I was initially unsure what the Laos currency was worth, I referred to Emma's gift as 33 mystery notes. Thus our accomodation in Huay Xai was three mystery notes, and dinner and beers overlooking the mekong was four mystery notes.

Pak Beng
Pak Beng is a village whose economy is based soley around the fact that it is around halfway from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, and thus is a logical overnight stop. I went for a bit of an explore, and the only commercial activities I found were a) guesthouses and b) restaurants, all with full English menus. All the information I had previously read said Pak Beng was a complete hole, not to parade expensive cameras/jewellery and to beware of offered drugs.
I didn't think the town was too bad. We got a clean spacious room for 50000 kip (5 USD) and a good night's sleep, so no dramas there. I think your experience of Pak Beng would probably depend on how much you paid- some other people on the boat paid 3 USD for rooms for four people, and they had all sorts of creepy crawlies...

My one gripe with Pak Beng was that they overcharged me for whiskey. In Houy Xai I paid 8000 kip (less than a dollar) for a 750 ml bottle of Lao Lao whiskey, and it was perfectly drinkable. In Pak Beng I paid 20000 kip (2 dollars) for a bottle of whiskey, and it tasted worse than the first bottle.